Wasting Time in Chilled Out Luang Prabang

Check out the article below that I wrote for www.cgrooves.com, an online expat magazine out of China. It will be published in their December issue.

Wasting Time in Chilled Out Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang, located in north central Laos, is the country’s most popular tourist destination. Known for its beautifully preserved temples, monks in saffron robes, and pastel colored French colonial architecture, Luang Prabang sits on a narrow peninsula of land formed by the union of the mighty Mekong and Khan Rivers. The old city, where most of the cultural sites, hotels and restaurants reside, is just 300 meters wide by one kilometer long and resembles a thumb in shape. The manageability of the city’s small size, friendliness of the locals, and old-world feel makes Luang Prabang seem more like a small town rather than a major hub of commerce and tourism.

Since Laos opened to tourism in 1989 little has changed in Luang Prabang due to its status as a UNESCO world heritage site. All buses and trucks are banned within the city limits, keeping noise and traffic at a minimum. The city also preserves its traditional feel by continuing to enact a 11:30pm curfew for both residents and travelers. 

Luang Prabang has an assortment of natural and cultural sites which are easily accessible on foot or by bike. Most of the city’s sites are off the two main streets, Th Khen Khong and Th Sisavangvong, which run along the eastern Mekong coast and down the middle of the peninsula. The best panoramic views of the city can be found at the top of Phou Si Hill, a 100-meter high hill at the base of the peninsula. Dotted with small temples and shrines, the trek up Phou Si Hill is well worth the climb, especially at sunset.

Not to be missed is the Royal Palace Museum or Haw Kham. Built in 1904, during the French colonial era, for King Sisavangvong and his family, the last occupant of the palace was his son, crown prince Savang Vatthana, who took the throne after his father’s death in 1959. In 1975 the monarchy was overthrown by the communists and the crown prince and his family were sent to re-education camps, never to be heard of again.  The palace was later turned into a national museum. The palace contains various royal and religious objects including the Crown Jewels of Laos and the Pha Bang, a gold, silver and bronze standing Buddha.

As a religious centre, Luang Prabang has thirty-two temples. Shoes, and often photography, are prohibited inside the temples and it’s recommended that foreigners wear pants and women dress modestly, although it’s not strictly enforced at all locations. The most popular temples are Wat Mai Suwannapumaram, Wat Visoun, and Wat Xieng Thong.

Wat Mai Suwannapumram,a nineteenth century temple, is conveniently located next door to the Royal Palace Museum making it one of the most visited. The temple is known for its gold relief panels covering its front façade.

Near the northern tip of the peninsula is Wat Xieng Thong, the city’s most brilliant temple. This colorful temple is covered in ornate paintings and mosaics of every color of the rainbow. On the temple grounds is the royal funeral chapel which holds an impressive 12-meter high funeral chariot and urns for members of the royal family.

To the east of town center is the Wat Visoun, the oldest continually operating temple in Luang Prabang. The temple contains a collection of 15^th and 16^th century wooden Calling for Rain Buddhas and ordination stones. If you haven’t gotten your temple fill after visiting the big three, I suggest taking a “temple tour” by renting a bike and hitting the lesser visited temples located outside of Luang Prabang city limits and across the Mekong River.

Luang Prabang is also a great jumping off point for trekking, rafting, and elephant riding excursions. Tours to the popular Pak Ou Caves and Koung Si waterfall are inexpensive and offered by a plethora of tour companies in old town.

The Pak Ou Caves, located on a cliff face, are full of thousands of Buddha statues. The old and disfigured Buddhas are a memorable site as they cover almost every nook of the cave.

Koung Si waterfall, 32-kilometers away, is considered one of the most picturesque in the country and is set in a breathtaking public park. The 200-foot high waterfall cascades down into a sparkling turquoise pool which provides welcome relief after the arduous walk up hill.

If you aren’t looking to see the sites, Luang Prabang offers an assortment of activities such as taking Lao cooking classes, shopping at the famous Hmong night market, or enjoying an inexpensive Lao or Thai massage. Some of my favorite days were spent sitting in open air cafes on Th Sisavangvong and getting lost wandering the streets admiring the beautiful architecture and people.

This picturesque riverside city is the perfect place to kick back and relax and enjoy the famous chilled out Laotian lifestyle. I recommend staying in one of its many quaint guest houses in old town for at least 4 days, anything less and you won’t have the proper time to decompress. I stayed for a total of 6 nights but could have easily stayed longer because time flies when you are doing really nothing at all.

Laid-back Laos: A hut, a hammock, a sunset

Laid-back Laos: A hut, a hammock, a sunset was my first published travel story. Published in the Arizona Republic over three years ago on February 18, 2007. I had recently come back from a trip in southeast Asia where I spent a month in Laos. I had been living in Dalian, China and traveled south to Laos on a little adventure through Southeast Asia before heading back to America. Laos was a refreshing change from the fast paced frantic life of big city China. The people were so gosh darn nice and helpful, everyone was chill and relaxed, I never felt unwelcome, felt completely safe as a solo female traveler, and a dollar could buy you a hotel room (and a pretty nice one). Over the course of a month I traveled south from the northern boarder with China to Si Phan Don in the southern Champasak region. Si Phan Don a.k.a. "the 4000 islands" is a cluster of tiny islands, inlets, sandbars along a 50-kilometer stretch of the Mekong River. I spent the most relaxing week of my life on Don Det, one of the larger islands. I met a group of 5 single travelers on the boat ride to Don Det and we all got huts together along the coast of the Mekong. We literally did nothing for a week  but eat, drink, relax in our hammocks, wade in the Mekong, ride bikes and gaze at the stars.

I wanted to share my amazing experience with others so I wrote up a story and sent it to the editors of the Arizona Republic and within a month it was published. I have a feeling the 4000 islands aren't as secluded as they were in 2005, most likely there is electricity and Internet now, but I bet you can still find a hammock to relax in and a room for $10 instead of a buck. A few days ago my mom found an original print of the article and scanned it. Its difficult to read so I've typed it up.

Laid-back Laos: A hut, a hammock, a sunset

Si Phan Don, along a 50-kilometer stretch of the Mekong River in Champasak province in southern Laos, is the ultimate relaxation destination.

Si Phan Don means “4000 islands.” In the dry season, the Mekong recedes to reveal hundreds, if not thousands, of tiny inlets, islands and sandbars. Don Dhet and Don Khon, the larger of the islands and linked by a bridge, offer tourists a year-round glimpse at island life and a chance to enjoy the traditional Laotian lifestyle.

The small, wooded islands lack modern necessities, such as electricity and telephones. Accommodations are thatched-roof huts balanced on stilts along the coast. The toughest decision is whether to choose a hut on Don Dhet’s Sunset Strip or on the Sunrise Boulevard, aptly\named by the locals. The basic huts provide only a bed, but what can you expect for a dollar a night? Each hut comes with a hammock strung outside your door, above the flowing Mekong waters.

The most charming aspect of Don Dhet is the locals’ trust of their guests. During your stay, you write your meals and drinks in a notebook, and the total is added up at departure. My total was $24 for a week.

The island offers a wide range of activities; two of the most popular are napping and reading in your hammock. All the local sights are best reached on foot or by bicycle.

Tat Somphamit, a set of raging rapids on Don Khon, is a beautiful place to see local fisherman wading for their next big catch. The islands have many hiking trails. Kayaking and tubing are great ways to explore neighboring islands. A short boat ride off the coast of Don Khon provides a chance to see the rare freshwater Irrawaddy dolphins.

Peaceful sunsets are enjoyed on communal balconies along the Sunset Strip coast. Nights are spent traveling with flashlights to neighboring guesthouses in search of food, drink and company. Or you can lie in your hammock and enjoy the bright stars in the clear skies.

It’s a common saying in Laos that the farther south you go, the more relaxed it gets. You can’t get any more southern than the 4,000 islands.